Thursday, January 27, 2011

pad thai, riverside bamboo bungalows, and motorbikes

Heyyyyyyyy,
I'm currently sitting in Bangkok after taking a bus from Pai to Chiang Mai yesterday and the night but from Chiang Mai to Bangkok today.  Tonight i will leave Bangkok and take the night bus down to Krabi and then a ferry over to Koh Phi Phi, an island in southern thailand.  After my thai cooking class in Chiang Mai i went out to the Maesa Elephant Sanctuary the next day where i got to play with some elephants, ride an elephant, get cuddled by elephants, etc.  All in all, i LOVE elephants.  They're just so darn intelligent.  The Maesa elephant sanctuary was definitely better than the tiger temple, but i'm not quite sure by how much.  All in all, i'm not too stoked on the use of animals for tourism.  I much preferred the giraffe sanctuary in Kenya where the rescued giraffes were free to range over large large large areas and land but could come to elevated huts where visitors could feed them, touch them, kiss them (gross but i did it) and learn about them.  Anyway, the next day i took off to Pai, an amazing little music hippie town with a river running through it (a la missoula, montana).  I stayed in an elevated bamboo bungalow on the river and spent much of my first day walking around, reading the hobbit in a hammock by the river and getting a feel for the town.  That night i met some guys from the same guesthouse and spent the evening at a big bonfire on the river with fire dancers socializing with other travellers.  The next day the guys i met and i rented some motor scooters (soooooo fun) and travelled around the countryside checking out small villages, canyons, waterfalls, etc.  All in all we motorbiked around for 8 hours in beautiful northern thailand.  Unfortunately, on a dirt road, my motorbike skid out and the exhaust pipe burned (realllllllllly burned) the back of my leg.  I currently have a pretty large and pretty ugly burn wound complete with black skin on the back of my leg.  At this point i'm mostly just trying to fight off infection until i get home and hoping it grows at LEAST a thin layer of skin back before i go diving in the next few days (salt water... bummer!).  Anyway, after spending 3-4 days in Pai, i headed out yesterday and have arrived in Bangkok today.  I'm not really sure as to my plan as of right now.  I was going to go spend two weeks down south in the sun scuba diving off a few of the islands but a cyclone has come through and brought some clouds and rain.  It'll be a bummer for visibilities sake when i'm diving but you can't feel the rain 75 feet under the water eh?  Anyway, that's all for now, sorry about the scatter blogpost, those night busses lead to some haggard days!  More soon!
<3<3<3
Ella

Friday, January 21, 2011

Thailand - from ella

Hey famalam,
I will probably be fairly bad about updating this blog but since i'm not quite tired i'll have a go.  Also, goodbye to lilly's dedicated family followers, it was a pleasure having you "follow" our trip.  Please feel free to continue reading if you're so inclined (though it'll probably bore you to death reading about a stranger).   I arrived in Bangkok very late at night and took the airport shuttle bus to Koh (kho, khoa? i don't think it matters) san road, the backpacker strip if you will.   At first, i struggled to find the backpackers i'd booked into which for a moment was rather terrifying because a big fatty old fat rat ran across my foot (luckily the last one i've seen).  Bangkok ended up being far more fun than anyone or any blog has ever said.  I spent my first day going to the Grand Palace, a fabulous temple and palace with some of the most remarkable architecture i've seen.  There's something very intriguing about a culture that is so enamored and in love with their king that these outrageous sparkly gold palaces are built for them (and the thai REALLLLLLLY do love their king, even though they're overthrown every 15 someodd years and then everyone hates them or something like that).  After the grand palace i enjoyed some pad thai street food and spent some time walking up and down khosan road meandering in and out of market vendors selling everything from fake ids to buddha statues.  It was there i met Benji, a friend i travelled with for a few days and headed out the next day with him and his friends from australia to Kachanburi where we went to a floating market (pretty neat), the bridge over the river kwai (wish i knew more about WW2), and a tiger temple where you could pet realllllllly big tigers.  The temple is supposedly a buddhist temple where infant tigers are rescued from the wild for one reason or another and brought to the monks to be taken care of.  In reality, i would never recommend the activity to anyone.  While i very much enjoyed being that close to a tiger and being able to touch them, the whole process i feel has moved away from tiger rescue and buddhist tradition and is a money making business where the tigers are treated terribly.  I would have much preferred a sanctuary where i could observe them in a natural environment or something.  Anyway, the next day i bummed around Bangkok until I took the night bus up to Chiang Mai where i am currently hanging out.  Tonight i took a thai cooking class and learned how to cook proper pad thai, thai green curry, spring rolls, and hot and sour soup.  the class was absolutely amazing, hopefully i can remember all i learned and do some cooking when i'm back home.  Tomorrow i'm going to an elephant sanctuary, the reviews online have said the elephants are treated very well and their caretakers clearly care about them, let's hope.  Anyway, that's all for now!  Love ya'll!!
<3<3<3
Ella

Monday, January 17, 2011

And the journey continues....

Hi everyone!
This is going to be a brief blog for several reasons: 1. I don't know what Ella talked about in the last one. 2. Ella is currently in Thailand and not in New Zealand with me. 3. I am sitting in the airport waiting for my flight.
Ok, so. Ella left for Thailand early this morning. It was a sad night and day for me not having her by my side for the first time in over 2 months. I couldn't have asked for a better travel buddy and I am already anxiously awaiting her return to Missoula. Have fun in BangCOCK girl, I'll be thinking of you!
We arrived in Christchurch probably 4 days ago and have been couch surfing with a guy named David and his 2 roommates, Guido and Patrick. These guys were phenomenal hosts, they were so wonderful in fact that I bet we'd hang out regularly if we lived in the same place. David is a salsa instructor and we got to watch him and his friends perform one night. They were amazing and will be heading to Australia in about a week to compete. Good luck David!
Um, I'm kinda done now. Lost my motivation to blog along with the energy to hitch about 6 days ago. Sorry guys, but this is all I have left. Thanks for keeping up with our blog, we hope you enjoyed it!
xoxo Lilly and Ella

Sunday, January 9, 2011

razor scooters and mullets are cool here


Hey All,
Lilly and I have so many gloriously not glorious things to inform you about.  We hitched our way back up towards Takaka to the Tasman store where we then walked along an estuary in Tasman and up a massive hill to our next WWOOF host (henceforth called “R”)’s property (in the sun mind you, we were very sweaty).  “R”’ property was a stunning house and garden up on massive 40m high cliffs overlooking the ocean.  The property was paradise, and the entire experience would have been fabulous had R not been such a whiny wet blanket.  For the next 4 days lil and I pulled one specific weed (it looks like a clover with heart-shaped leaves) out of her extensive garden.  R was an organic enthusiast so if she couldn’t grow it or meet the grower and have an intense discussion about their organic practices she didn’t eat it.  Since it wasn’t harvesting season for her vegetables, we starved.  She swore all organic vegetables in supermarkets came from China and since China was so polluted all the organic produce was poisoned (she love to talk about how her property had never been poisoned).  She also liked to talk about how hard everything was, being a single mother and all, and choosing this “alternative” lifestyle (apparently organic is now an isolating and alternative lifestyle), and how frustrating the holiday season was since farmers went on holiday so she couldn’t get her avocados, milk, or bread from 3 different couriers who brought it to her (up and hill and out of any main town… not very sustainable R).  So we spent our days weeding while she complained to us about her hard life and her 15 year old son who plays computer games all day (and not that I love computer games but if I were 15 and were stuck on that hill with nothing to do but garden since R wouldn’t drive him to see his friends I would play games too).  Since there was no food to harvest we were forced to eat oatmeal (not awful) every morning with some awful honey.  For lunch R would mix buckwheat flour with one egg and a lot of water and call it pancake batter.  She would then throw a ton of coconut oil on the pan and we would have to fry them and eat them with, of course, honey. If you don’t know, coconut oil is disgustingly bitter and buckwheat flour doesn’t actually taste like anything.  For dinner R would pull weeds out of the garden that apparently had nutritional benefits and we would eat them as a “salad.”  We were also required to finish all sorts of foods she couldn’t finish since her body was emaciated and rejecting food and she couldn’t figure out why (DUH she eats WEEDS).  These foods included pumpkin that was at least a week old and quark.  Quark, if you don’t know, is essentially really sour fatty cream cheesey cottage cheese vomit.  R makes it by putting full fat milk in a jar and the jar in boiling hot water.  You then let it sit in the closet for 3 days and then it sours and then Lilly and I have to eat it.  We would have left after the first day but we felt that she was so emotionally unstable she would have thrown herself off the cliff had she been told she was a whiny wet blanket who should just eat some damn potato chips (organic if she’d like).  Anyway, five days later, we left.  The day we left I got a parasite.  Thanks R.  A walk in clinic diagnosed it as Giardia and I am currently on anti-flagellates.  We headed to our next WWOOF host the day I was diagnosed with Giardia and in spite of her knowing I had giardia she made us wait around all day in Blenheim for her to come meet us and inform me that I was in fact a national health hazard and should be quarantined (she was very confused as to why the doctor had not told me that… idiot).  Anyway, we were rejected from her farm, she didn’t want to expose her kids to my parasite; apparently they must be stupid enough to eat my poop or something, since that’d be the only way for them to get the parasites… oh well.  After a night in Blenheim we hitched our way back up to Picton where we are currently staying at Juggler’s Rest hostel.  We spent the beautiful, sunny day kayaking on the Marlborough Sounds.  Tomorrow we head out to Kaikoura to couchsurf and swim with DOLPHINS (or I will, lilly is saving her dollars).
Welp, that’s all for now!
<3<3<3
Ella
Oh yes, one more important note on R’s house.  The only toilet at the house was a compost toilet around back, which wouldn’t have been so bad save the minimum of 20 spiders crawling in and around the toilet including one MASSIVE fatty spider up in the corner who twitched at you as you went.  Lil and I would secretly pee behind the compost toilet shed to avoid the spiders poisoning R’s lawn, much to her dismay had she known.  

Saturday, January 1, 2011

still sans trumpets

Hey all,
As per my parents and sister’s request on Christmas, I will do the next two blog updates, since I believe I have failed to do anything aside from the “Notes from Ella”. Two additional “notes from Ella” before I tell you all about what we’ve been doing: one) I now officially have three buckles broken on my pack. Osprey/REI will be hearing from me upon my return (not that I’m hating on Osprey, the pack has suffered much abuse from me over my travels and has held up well). Secondly) the dino raptor earrings have officially broken, lil and I both shed a tear but are hoping to turn them into dangles upon our return stateside. Now onto our travels (also, this will be very long since it’s been so long since we’ve updated this… and I ramble more than Lilly).
We took off the day after Christmas to start the Abel Tasman Coastal Track. Day one was absolutely glorious. The track reminds me very much of highway one on the coast of California, cut against the hillside winding up and down, all the while staring out at the ocean (except here, the ocean is that beautiful green/blue color you see in the Caribbean). We stopped about halfway through our first day and waded onto a white sandy beach and enjoyed the sand for some hours before getting to our actual campsite, which was also on a white sandy beach and was absolutely beautiful. Our second day started out bright and early with an estuary crossing. Side note: when starting the Abel Tasman track you are given (save that Lilly and I were not given) a tide times table because periodically throughout the track there are estuary crossings and if you miss low tide you can either swim in the water getting your pack all wet or wait out the tide; which is rather unfortunate given that low tides usually hit around 8am and 8 pm. Anyway, we made our first tide crossing and wound up and down the cliffside with the day going from bright and sunny to slightly overcast, slightly misty, and then finally, rain. We made it to our second campsite in a very heavy rain, frantic I might add because we thought we had to make an estuary crossing and had missed low tide and would thus be sitting in the rain for hours until the water level went down (stupid department of conservation forgetting to give us a tide sheet). Anywho, the tent site along the trail had a cooking “shelter,” essentially two walls with an overhang where we huddled inside trying to dry out the footprint to our tent so we wouldn’t get wet for the night (besides it was cold and rainy and all our stuff was wet so there wasn’t much else to do). Long story short, Lil and I managed to camp through the most rain the Golden Bay has seen since 1977. We woke at midnight to find ourselves sleeping in a puddle with fear the crashing ocean next to us would eventually hit us and sweep our stuff out to sea (note to Blaine, in case you didn’t know, your tent is absolutely in no way waterproof). Around 6:30am we heard a branch crack over our heads and decided it was time to choose life and get out of our tent. Unfortunately, we had to end our trek early and take a “water taxi” (essentially a boat that picks you up along the track if you’re too lazy to do the entire thing and makes you pay an exorbitant amount of money for the service). With our sleeping bags, clothes, and tent soaking wet we figured it wasn’t worth the risk of hypothermia to continue on to our next campsite, 7 hours away in the rain (and we’d have missed the second tide crossing given the weather and water levels so we’d be hiking in the dark). I would like to note, the Abel Tasman was absolutely amazing and I’d recommend it to anyone. After getting off the track we arrived in Takaka.
Arrive Takaka. Takaka is absolutely wonderful. Annie’s Nirvana Lodge is one of the greatest hostels I have every stayed at with the funniest owner and friendliest people. It was warm and sunny the entire time we were there. We spent our first day with some folks from the hostel going up to the farewell spit and Whaririki beach, both absolutely stunning, but of the absolute most importance, there were SEALS on the beach, lots and lots of adorable and stinky seals. Precious, I wanted to cuddle with them, they on the other hand, were having non of it. My unrequited love for animals continues. The next day we went with some other folks from the hostel to another beach and new years eve we spent at a river swimming, jumping off cliffs, and laying out on rocks. The rivers here are like nothing I’ve ever see complete with that stunning blue green water color I’ve only ever found in oceans but here seems to wind through the trees in the rivers (bad fishing though dad, we tried for a while with a lake rod and had no luck). We very much enjoyed our new years eve night drinking at the hostel with all the other mates, including a man who had to be at least 75 years old from Scotland… awesome. Now we have arrived back in Nelson for one night and will be off to a farm tomorrow. Cheers!
P.S. apologizes for any grammatical errors or typos, I don’t really like spending this much time on the computer so I’m not going back and checking this J
<3<3<3
Ella

Saturday, December 25, 2010

Christmas on the Beach!

Hi everyone!
Torti family: I know Ella was supposed to do this post and the next but we have to be checked out of our hostel soon so I'm gonna do it real quick. Don't you worry, she will write the best blog EVER next time :)
Ok so last time we wrote, we were in Hokitika. We successfully hitched to Nelson with an awesome artist who lives in London, Christian. He was able to fit all 3 of us in his car and it was awesome to meet him. We stopped by the Pancake Rocks which were amazing and had some ice cream along the way. When we got to Nelson we checked into a hostel called Accents on the Park which has been our home since we got here. Our first night at Accents, Ella gave me a little haircut and we had a great dinner. Since we got here we've been to the beach and spent a lot of time at the library.
For Christmas Eve Ella, Hugh and I went out for a nice dinner and it was delicious. After we had our amazing steak and potatoes we had a traditional New Zealand dessert called Pavlova. It's kind of like a meringue cake with fruit and whipped cream, very tasty. Yesterday was Christmas and we celebrated by making french toast and swapping jade that we bought for each other in Hokitika. Then Ella bought her plane ticket to Thailand (yeah girl!) and we spent the rest of the day on the beach with a box of wine. Not such a bad day but definitely a bad head ache this morning.
Today Ella and I are starting another 3 day, 3 night hike called the Abel Tasman Track. It's going to be 3 days of walking on white sand beaches and sleeping under the stars so it will be awesome. We have no real plans for new years yet but that's always kind of a disappointing holiday so we'll figure it out when it rolls around.
I got really homesick yesterday after talking to my family on Skype, it was awesome to see everyone though! I hope everyone's christmas was great and we love you!
xoxo lilly

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Hokitika

Hi guys!
I don't remember when I last blogged so I'll do my best to get caught up. I think the last time I blogged, Ella and I had just gotten off the Routeburn Track.
The day after we left Queenstown we hitched to Franz Josef. We did a 9 hour glacier hike in Franz Josef and it was awesome! We made some delicious food at the hostel and then I finally satisfied my Lord of the Rings craving and watched the first movie. It was just as amazing as I remember :)
Yesterday we hitched from Franz Josef to Hokitika, the Jade center of New Zealand. It was pouring rain in Franz Josef but we were finally picked up by a great North Island couple, Grant and Jen. Thanks again you guys! Today Ella and I bought some jade for each other, it's bad luck to buy it for yourself so we got it for each other and are going to swap it for christmas. Tomorrow we hitch to Nelson and will be there for Christmas.
Ok that's all right now. I'm too tired to make this an interesting blog today.
We love and miss you guys a lot!
xoxo Lilly and Ella